BANDHANI in Sikar and Mandawa
My main objective of posting this blog is to make aware people following western cultures in India that we Indians are far more better in textiles and it’s just that we do not cater branding in Indian craft clusters because of which they are not a worldwide brand but are very rich in their own skills. So before new year , I went to these 2 villages of Rajasthan where, I met skilled artisans of Bandhani craft and learned from them, that how do they actually make it with their hands. It was really interesting learning with them and I think we all should know about it in My Blog.
P.S- All the pictures are Captured by myself.
Tehsil galli in Sikar and Leelgharon ka mohalla In Mandawa , Rajasthan.
The art of Bandhani is a highly skilled process. The technique involves dyeing a fabric which is tied tightly with a thread at several points, thus producing a variety of patterns like Chandrakala, Bavan Baug, Shikari etcetera; depending on the manner in which the cloth is tied. The main colours used in Bandhani are yellow, red, blue, green and black.The main colours used in Bandhani are natural. As Bandhani is a tie and dye process, dying is done by hand and hence best colours and combinations are possible in Bandhanis.
TECHNIQUES: Tools –
- The area is first dyed with blocks using fugitive colours. Then place a needle under the fabric, which has pin holes over this area of the fabric and using fugitive colours transfer an imprint of the desired pattern onto the fabric.
- The material generally used is thin woven silk known as georgette or a cotton known as mamal.
- The artisans then pulls on a small area of the fabric where there is an imprint of hole with needle and winds thread tightly around the protruding cloth to form a knot or bhindi. The thread generally used is nylon thread.
- After tying the knots the fabric is thoroughly washed to remove the imprint. The cloth is then dipped in napthol for five minutes and dyed in yellow or another light color for two minutes.
- Next it is rinsed, squeezed, dried and then tied again and dipped in a darker color. This is kept for three to four hours (without opening the knots) to allow the color to soak in. During this process the small area beneath the thread resists the dye leaving an undyed dot. This is usually carried out in several stages starting with a light color like yellow, then after tying some more knots a darker color is used and so on.
- After the last dyeing process has been completed the fabric is washed and if necessary, starched. After the fabric is dried, its folds are pulled apart in a particular way releasing the knots and revealing their pattern. The result is a usually deep colored cloth with dots of various colours forming a pattern.
The colors commonly used in bandhni are – · red, a symbol of marriage · saffron, a color worn by yogi who has renounced the world · yellow, which stands for spring · black and maroon, used for mourning. India has a diverse and rich textile tradition which is known for its beauty and durability. These textiles are highly appreciated all over the world and considered as prestigious possession by one and all. Bandhani work involves tying and dyeing of pieces of cotton or silk cloth. The main colours used in Bandhani are yellow, red, green and black. Bandhani work, after the processing is over, results into a variety of symbols including, dots, squares, waves and strips. The main colours used in Bandhani are natural.